Men "Make-up" for Lost Time

Source: TheTrendSpotter

A study in 2017 asked men how much they agreed to statements regarding men’s cosmetics. Even though 47% of men agreed that “men just shouldn't use makeup,” 44% of men also agreed that “men today are more concerned about their looks than before.” 

The History of Men’s Makeup

The desire to appear attractive is a universal experience, and men wearing makeup is nothing new. Ancient Egyptians used makeup to highlight class differences and elitism. Both men and women used bold eye makeup to invoke the gods Horus and Ra to ward off illness and to show off wealth. Thick lines of kohl around the eyelids gave the impression of having almond-shaped eyes, and acted as sunscreen. Skipping to the 1550s, Elizabethan England paintings illustrate aristocratic men donning wigs and white powder to smooth out their complexions, and to differentiate themselves from the working class peasants who could not afford such luxuries. 

However, by the turn of the century, makeup was used to define gender roles. Marketing data from the 1900s in the US suggested that men would buy cosmetics if they believed it would enhance their masculinity, so ads targeting men’s grooming products employed a different language to differentiate itself from female counterparts. Face powders were known as “talcum,” perfume called “cologne,” and haircare labeled as “grooming,” though the products served the same function. Ads and magazines featured men in expensive suits showing off their sophisticated aftershave next to women posing next to traditionally masculine products such as expensive cars to prove that cosmetics would not damage their image of masculinity. During WWII, US propaganda encouraged women to maintain their femininity through cosmetics despite the war and filling in jobs previously employed by men, while male soldiers affirmed their masculinity by focusing on the maintenance of their uniforms and their physique rather than their faces. The 1940s were known as years of indulgence, where white, affluent women with time and money to spend on cosmetics were seen as frivolous. In an effort to distance themselves from the connotation of frivolousness, the exact opposite of masculinity, men in this era shunned makeup.

David Beckham, a “metrosexual” athlete who often is the face of men’s cosmetic brands.

Source: Biotherm Homme advertisement

The 1950s saw another shift as men returned to the workforce as clerks, salespeople, managers, and professionals. As part of their occupational ambitions, men used cosmetics and fashion to focus on the maintenance and improvement of their appearances. Masculinity, in this sense, was tied to production and utilitarianism, where makeup was simply a tool to help career ambitions. The lines dividing gender and makeup continued to blur throughout the decades, as encapsulated by the emergence of the label “metrosexuals,” a combination of the words “metropolitan” and “heterosexual” in the 2000s. Before this, the use of cosmetics was seen as a “gay thing,” and straight men did not want the stigma associated with being gay. Metrosexuals made it socially acceptable for men to maintain their masculinity, but also be sensitive, care about appearances, and be “in touch with their feminine side.” David Beckham, for example, is a metrosexual athlete who owns his own cosmetic product line.

Predictions for the Men’s Makeup Market

The market of men’s grooming continues to grow worldwide, and is expected to reach $81.2 billion USD by 2024. The global market size of men’s personal care has increased steadily since 2015, and is expected to top $27.54 billion USD by 2025. The largest markets are in Europe and America, while the fastest growth can be found in Asia, especially China and India. The rise of social media within the last two decades has also encouraged the need to look good on camera, since everything captured on video, when posted online, will be there forever. The sudden increased use of video conferencing will boost these estimates of men using facial makeup, as these are the features most visible on-screen.

Men will use more haircare and skincare products to build and maintain their personal brands, especially given the limitations of video conferencing. Video conferencing eliminates traditional ways of building personal brand, because usually only the top half of a person is seen during the call. With such limited visuals, making sure that one looks professional top-up has grown in importance. Additionally, right now, the leading men’s makeup market is in fragrances, and its market is expected to grow. However, because of video conferencing, haircare and skincare consumption could overtake fragrances in the short run, as, on video, it makes no difference what one smells like. Instead, men will focus on being “camera-ready on demand daily” with different creamers and concealers. Most men will go for a more gender neutral, "natural" look, with the goal of reducing pimples, bags under the eyes, and getting rid of glares caused by harsh light. Sleek and practical makeup will boom.  

Men will also increasingly purchase these products online. Before COVID-19, in-store shopping made up about 85% of cosmetic purchases. Makeup is a product people tend to try on, then buy, making leading distribution channels solidly in convenience stores and supermarkets. Consumer spending across the globe is slowly returning to pre-COVID-19 levels, meaning that as the global economy continues to improve, people will feel comfortable spending more on nonessential items such as makeup. These spending habits may trend to favor e-commerce stores, as people have become more used to buying items online rather than in brick-and-mortar stores. The US, Spain, and Italy expect around a 15% growth in buying skincare and makeup online. After following recommendations by friends and family members, 36% of South Korean men reported they would be willing to try out Korean skincare products after viewing positive reviews online on beauty stores’ websites.

Source: For Hims

Newer men’s makeup brands such as Menaji (2000),  For Hims (2017), Stryx (2019), feature sleek, unassuming packaging to target men and help them feel more comfortable using the product in-store. Because these businesses are relatively new and have few or no independent store locations, they instead rely on retailers such as Sephora, Walgreens, CVS, and Target, as well as their own company websites, to sell their products. However, men may turn to e-commerce sites to try new makeup and avoid the social discomfort of buying cosmetics in-store. Though in-store purchasing will most likely remain the most popular distribution channel, one can expect that buying men’s cosmetics online will also grow significantly.

Predictions for Future Generations

Younger men, especially Millennials and GenZ, will continue to be more open to skincare, grooming, and lean more towards ‘unisex’ or natural makeup, where they appear neither male nor female. Similar to the concept of metrosexuals, and a decrease in homophobia, men do not feel as pressured to avoid ‘feminine’ or ‘gay’ fashion. Several social media influencers seem to be spearheading the movement in the US as makeup gurus. Prominent stars, like James Charles (the first male ambassador for CoverGirl with 19.3 million Instagram followers and 20.1 million YouTube subscribers), Manny Guitieres, (a brand ambassador for Maybelline with more than 4.2 million Instagram followers and 4.8 million Youtube subscribers), and Jeffree Star (who owns his own cosmetics line and has 17.6 million YouTube subscribers), offer makeup tips and tricks for males and females alike, proving that androgynous men are successful. In other regions, such as East Asia, both Japanese "biyo danshi," or "beauty boys," and South Korean pop stars normalize the use of makeup. Products catering towards these men have already begun to appear. The men’s cosmetics company, Tom Ford, was founded in 2006, and features luxury concealers and other skincare products. Even more recently, Chanel launched its “Boy de Chanel” men’s makeup line in 2018, including foundations, lip balm, and eyebrow pencils in sleek, black packaging. Chanel’s YouTube channel posts videos explaining how men can obtain certain looks.

“Younger men, especially Millennials and GenZ, will continue to be more open to skincare, grooming, and lean more towards ‘unisex’ or natural makeup, where they appear neither male nor female.”

 As a result of an unexpected increased use of video conferencing during the pandemic and shifting cultural norms, it has become much more acceptable for men to dabble in cosmetics. The growing market for men’s cosmetics cannot be concealed.